Fancy a spot of tortoise for supper? Or maybe sparrow? New Middle Ages cookbook recreates delicacies of the day

By
Mark Duell and Eleanor Harding

19:49 EST, 23 May 2012

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19:49 EST, 23 May 2012

If you’re wondering what to whip up for dinner tonight, how about sparrows on toast, live frog pie or even sauteed tortoise?

These were some of the delights on the menu in the Middle Ages. And for those with rather strong stomachs, they can be recreated today, thanks to a new cookbook.

Peter Ross, the principal librarian at the Guildhall Library in London, has delved into recipe books dating back hundreds of years to collate the astonishing meals eaten by our ancestors.

Please don't eat me! Our ancestors turned to odd sources of protein during tough times, including tiny sparrows

Please don’t eat me! Our ancestors turned to odd sources of protein during tough times, including tiny sparrows

He has collected them in a book, The Curious Cookbook, which details such forgotten gems as barbecued otter and sautéed tortoise, chopped brain fritters, cod’s head and shoulders, imitation entrails and fishy mince pies.

Mr Ross, who has studied historic cookery for 25 years, said: ‘I have always loved learning about what we ate in the past.

‘It tells us about how people lived in a way that almost nothing else can. Researching the book, I looked at thousands of recipes.

‘Some were alarming or curious – and many showed the inventiveness, sophistication and daring of generations of British cooks.’

Mr Ross, who has been studying historic cookery for 25 years, found the English were eating a type of lasagne as early as 1390.

‘We often think that pasta really only arrived in this country in the 1950s and 60s,’ he said.

‘So we can ask: “Did the English invent lasagne in the fourteenth century?”.’

During his research, he also discovered that our ancestors turned to different sources of protein during tough times, such as starlings, sparrows and rooks.

Meanwhile cooks in the past developed dishes such as chopped brain fritters, cod’s head and shoulders, imitation entrails and fishy mince pies.

And the ingenuity of some creations was well ahead of its time, such as portable soup – and ketchup that could be kept for two decades.

Many of the recipes Mr Ross found show our ancestors’ appetite for various birds and animals, including kangaroo soup and roast peacock.

Instructions for the roast peacock included the line: ‘break his neck then cut his throat’.

A recipe for fricasseed or curried kangaroo tails advised cooks to ensure the ‘tail and tongue are the only parts of the animal that are eaten’.

The tail was supposed to be ‘made into soup or fricasseed, or curried in the same manner as an oxtail’. The recipe added: ‘The tongue is picked as that of sheep or oxen.’

Too slow to get away: A tortoise. Good for eating, apparently

Too slow to get away: A tortoise. Good for eating, apparently

Mr Ross has studied the earliest manuscript and printed cookery books in the English language – and the lavish offerings of the 17th and 18th centuries.

He has also looked at the simplicities of the Victorian kitchen and the imaginative ideas developed during rationing in the 1940s.

Britons were forced to be more creative during the Second World War and one young girl even developed a recipe for lemon curd sandwiches containing lemon essence and porridge.

The author said he hopes his book inspires modern-day chefs to be creative with their own dinner parties, but advised against cooking up now-endangered species.

The Curious Cookbook: Viper Soup, Badger Ham, Stewed Sparrows 100 More Historic Recipes is published by the British Library and retails at £14.95.

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Please don’t give people ideas – in these hard times! Some people will be stupid enough to make them and make a tv show – no names mentioned!!!

If you want a quick meal, how about field mouse or hare soup.
If you have time for something slower then Snails or a tortoise.
A snappy meal would be a good crocodile.
A light snack could be sparrows or even the odd budgerigar.
A more substantial meal then go hippopotamus or a juicy elephant.
For the eco friendly, save a tree have a pickled squirrel.
Why not go the whole hog and help the young find employment as a nice joint of meat, invite someone round for dinner, then tell them they are the main course.
Times have changed, maybe we should try and do the same.

I believe at one time we used to eat boiled politicians sautéed in their own broken promises, but gave it up because they were too hard to swallow.

Appalling, to think how many kangaroo were cooked up just for their tails in Medieval Britain.

So do you cook the tortoise in a slow cooker?

Food is curious. I will happily tuck into a good slice of cow, Kangaroo is nice but needs to be rare or it’s tough – but the the thought of tucking into a dolphin is disgusting. Chicken is fine but never a Giraffe. Pigs are wonderous and tasty but never a dog. Crocodiles are fine but never an echidna. My favourite is chicken but I will never chew on a parsons nose. In other cultures the thought of eating cheese is disgusting enough to make people vomit, but they are excited by eating goat placenta.
To each their own. My only protests to meat as food are the usual – give them a good life, avoid endangered species (yay, lets kill off a species because it shows how good I am at ‘hunting’) and cruelty – shark fin soup (yay, lets slice the skin and cartliage off of animals and throw them back into the water to drown) and make skin and cartilage soup.

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