The review was picked up by the New York website Gawker, which mocked its somewhat parochial tone.
By the next day, the online version of the review had more than 200,000 hits and thousands of Twitter mentions – in a town of only 50,000 and compared to the maximum 5,000 hits stories usually receive on the Grand Forks Herald website.
As of Sunday night, the piece had been viewed by well over half a million people.
Hundreds of them emailed Mrs Hagerty directly with mocking messages, to each of which she replied with a polite “thank you”.
One critic tweeted: “For a moment I couldn’t decide if that was a parody or not. But I guess in North Dakota a new Olive Garden is big news.”
Another said: “Honestly, I wasn’t sure this was real.”
But now a backlash against the sneering has begun, with thousands taking to the internet to defend the grandmother from her “snobby” critics.
Some claimed that the response to the review was ageist, while others criticised big city “elites” for being snooty about dining experiences in small town America.
Mrs Hagerty herself is astounded at the fuss, telling WDAY TV: “Somebody told me I went viral, I didn’t know what that meant. I don’t get it. The phone has been ringing constantly. It’s been ringing all the time and I’ve been answering it and then the emails keep pouring in and I’ve been trying to keep track of that.”
Mrs Hagerty has worked for the paper her late-husband Jack edited for 65 years, officially retiring as a journalist in the 1970s, but continuing to file five columns a week.
And her next Eatbeat assignment? The Grand Forks Herald is sending Mrs Hagerty to New York to review one of the most upmarket restaurants in town.
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