An increasing number of Chinese are ruffling feathers in the conservative
region when they arrive via minibus or in small groups.
One owner in Chambolie-Musigny said: “They never say hello or goodbye.
All that matters is the price. If it’s 60 euros, they’re not interested. If
it’s 250 euros, they take six.
“They don’t give a stuff about the wine itself. And if we refuse them
something, they get aggressive. They’re spoiled kids who think they can act
as they like.”
Paul Vallin, a wine specialist and Asia connoisseur, said their approach
reflected cultural differences.
“It’s just that for them, wine is also a business,” he said. “In
business relations over there, one is obliged to provide gifts of great
value whose buyer will recognise the price.”
The local gripes coincided with Burgundy’s famous annual wine auction at the
Hospices de Beaune, a charitable organisation in the region’s wine capital,
whose president this year was Carla Bruni-Sarkozy.
The auction, which has been going for 152 years, saw a Ukrainian buyer pay
270,000 euros (£170,000) for a 350-litre barrel of Corton grand cru
Charlotte Duma. The former French First Lady joked: “At 200,000 euros,
I’ll deliver the wine. At 250,000 my husband [Nicolas] will deliver it with
me”.
Organisers said they had seen rocketing interest in the sale from Asian
buyers. China is now Burgundy’s fourth largest export market behind Japan,
Britain and the United States.
But Louis-Fabrice Latour, chairman of the union of Burgundy winemakers, said
talk of an Asian invasion was exaggerated.
“In simple terms, (annual sales to) China represents less than one month
of sales to the US,” he told Creusot Infos.
Burgundy bottles are distinctive in having gently sloping shoulders in green
glass, and with a slightly fatter girth than other wine bottles.
Sales from the auction were heading for record highs. Last year, 618 barrels
raised a total of more than euros 5.4 million euros.
This year, 512 barrels of 2012 whites and reds were up for sale – a smaller
number as a tough year has resulted in lower volumes. But with quality
high, prices were fetching 50 per cent more on average.
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